A Slice of Life: Kenji Lopez-Alt's Pizza Pilgrimage

J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, the culinary wizard behind legendary pizza hacks like the skillet-broiler method and that killer New York–style recipe, recently sat down for a chat that was less interrogation and more a delicious trip down memory lane. Forget fancy wood-fired ovens; this guy's heart belongs to the humble, reheated, fold-in-half, served-on-a-paper-plate slice from a New York street corner. It's the kind of pizza that doesn't need a reservation, just a napkin.

The conversation kicked off with the Pizza Cognition Theory—the idea that your first slice defines 'pizza' forever. Kenji’s pizza origin story is a classic New York double-feature. Was it the greasy, well-charred slices from the long-gone Pizza Town on Broadway, complete with a Wings band poster and five-for-a-dollar garlic knots? Or was it the thick, cheesy, red-sauce pies at V&T Pizzeria in Morningside Heights, with its checked plastic tablecloths? Even he can't remember which came first, but the sensory imprint is clear: grease, char, and cheese. While he admits V&T might not hold up for his adult palate, those early slices cemented a lifelong love affair.

When it comes to toppings, Kenji is a purist at heart. 'I go plain all the way. It's the only way to really judge a pizza,' he declares. For him, the crust is the canvas, and the sauce and cheese are the primary colors. That said, he’s not a complete topping zealot. He’ll make exceptions for a New Haven clam pie, a brassica-loaded creation from spots like Motorino, or a pepperoni slice—but only if the edges of that meat get perfectly crisp. Otherwise, it's just clutter.

So, where does a pizza expert go for a slice in 2026? Living in central Harlem, Kenji laments the lack of great pizza within walking distance. His city-wide champion is Sacco Pizza on Ninth Avenue. This place has history. He's been a customer since childhood, back when he'd skip music school to play Street Fighter II in the back. The place has burned down and risen from the ashes (and gone through a few name changes), but the sauce-cheese-crust ratio remains, in his opinion, masterfully balanced. Even if the slices have 'slipped a bit' from their legendary peak, they're still his gold standard.

• First Pizza Memories: Pizza Town & V&T Pizzeria.

• Go-To Topping: Plain cheese, for true pizza judgment.

• Harlem Haunt: Sacco Pizza on Ninth Ave (a childhood favorite).

• Home Kitchen Hero: Constantly tweaking the 'Holy Grail' of home Neapolitan pizza.

Of course, Kenji doesn't just eat pizza; he makes it, writes about it, and has even worked the line. His first restaurant job post-college was at Cambridge 1 in Harvard Square, slinging grilled pizzas Al Forno-style. 'I thought making pizzas... was the awesomest thing in the world,' he recalls. As the 'grill dude,' he did everything from morning prep to the adrenaline-fueled dinner service, juggling multiple pies with different toppings in under two minutes each. It was intense, fun, and formative.

Developing recipes for the public, Kenji keeps a specific audience in mind: everyone. 'I try hard to be inclusive of all pizza lovers out there,' he says, whether they're fellow 'nutso tweakers' or casual home cooks who just want a decent pie every few months. He avoids overly technical jargon, believing that pizza talk should be accessible. His biggest challenge? The elusive 'Holy Grail': a perfect Neapolitan-style pizza made in a home oven without requiring a DIY masonry project. He's constantly tweaking, testing, and admitting it may never be perfect—but the journey is the fun part.

Now, for the hot takes. What should NEVER go on a pizza? 'Uncured meat,' Kenji states firmly. Sliced chicken or rare steak? A hard pass. Toppings should be flavorings for the crust, not the main event. Bland, substantial meats just don't work. And while we're at it, overloading a pizza with toppings is a cardinal sin—it overwhelms the star of the show: the crust. The most unusual pizza he's ever endured? A 'Leftover Halloween Candy Pie.' His verdict: 'truly horrid.' Some experiments are best left in the imagination.

Has he traveled the globe for pizza? Not really. While he's made pilgrimages for sushi and pho, pizza feels too ubiquitous. He'd rather explore the local interpretation wherever he is. That said, he did dedicate a day in Rome to hunting the perfect pizza bianca, finding the best at Al Forno in Campo de Fiori (which, he notes with a sigh, food writer Jeffrey Steingarten also famously praised). The good news for New Yorkers? The owner opened Farinella in NYC, so you can get that fresh-from-the-oven Roman experience stateside.

Wrapping up, Kenji was asked if he had anything to get off his chest. In true form, he replied, 'I have a couple stray hairs that grow right in the center, but I don't think that's what you meant.' 😂 Classic Kenji. When pressed on who should be interviewed next, he needed a moment to think. The hot seat was vacated, leaving behind the warm, greasy, utterly satisfying aroma of a great pizza conversation. For Kenji Lopez-Alt, pizza isn't just food; it's memory, science, community, and a never-ending, delicious quest for that perfect slice.